Photo @chrispizzitola
We set off first thing in the morning. The smell of the ocean and swaying of the trees occupy my senses as I lift my head from the pillow. I throw a wet wetsuit and board in the car (which needs to be cleaned of its wax).
Dad fidgets the keys into our Mitsubishi Pajero and we drive away to the sounds of INXS blasting through the stereo. The air is cool, the sun is shining and I feel that this day will be a good one. We stop at a small bakery on the way down to the competition site for some breakfast and I inhale an egg and bacon quiche. I drink my water bottle so quick I probably pissed it up five minutes later, then it’s back on the road. We make the small trip to Gunnamatta to check the waves for a potential pre heat surf. As we arrive I bump into Chris Munro, my photographer (Red Hot Shotz) and his wife. We greet them and walk with them up the steep track. Once we reach the incline we peak over the track, greeted with a nice clean three foot swell that has all the potential you could hope for.
The first heats start and the kids are ripping. I am pumped so I go for a surf down the beach alongside my cousin Cody and my Uncle Steve. Following behind us is Chris with his camera. After feeling the fresh sand in between my toes I jump into the cool water, duck diving my first few waves and feeling the energy of the ocean seep through my 3-2 wetsuit. I look out and see a set on the horizon. I paddle for my life and stand up, sweeping down to the bottom of the wave and back up to hit the lip at vertical. Toss in two more turns before kicking out. First wave of the day, check.
Sooner rather than later I head in, trying not to lose my energy against the supreme rip at Gunnamatta. As I head in I get changed and sit to watch the heats before my own. My cousin Cody rips in his heat but just misses out. I feel sorry for him. I go back to the car and grab my wetsuit and throw it over my shoulders. I nervously run to grab my rashie from the judges and hear my name over the speakers. The sound of my name on the speakers makes me feel excited and calms my nerves ever so slightly at the same time. I stretch out my muscles and get some heat advice from one of my mate’s coaches. I paddle out and have butterflies in my stomach. Then the siren sounds rights as I reach the lineup. My first wave’s a good one and I’m feeling the flow. I get a few quick waves and then the rip takes my fellow competitors over the reef and out of the lineup. I’m in shock. I might take out this hard heat. Then we all take three sets on the head, furiously scratching for the horizon. In the final minute we all manage to get out of the rip and I pinch a wave which ends up being my best one. I take out the heat and move on to tomorrow’s semis. I’m ecstatic. But I know that the semis will be only harder. We leave the competition site and grab some fish and chips. The greasy fish and chips and the sweet orange juice hits the spot, then it’s back to the site for one more quick surf.
By now the surf’s average compared to earlier in the day so we just go home and make some much needed spaghetti bolognese. It’s absolutely perfect, seeing as how I hadn’t had a hearty meal that day. The day wraps up with a skate and then I finally rest my mop on the pillow, hoping the fortunes I had today will spring me to a final tomorrow.
