I once found myself on a trip to Portugal tagging along with a group of insanely talented surfers. The plan was pretty simple: we’d be driving up and down the coast looking for waves. The where, when, and how of it all was entirely dependent on swell, so even on day two of the journey all of our “plans” were completely up in the air. One morning, somebody threw out the idea of finding some surf in the Algarve and my ears perked up. Much of the region is known to be pretty tame in terms of wave selection. But I’d also heard quality waves worth traveling for could be found if you knew when and where to look. That mystery, coupled with the remoteness of the region, had my interest.
Funny enough, we spent most of that week looking for waves elsewhere. The incoming swell wasn’t going to wrap deep enough into the southern part of Portugal, so that idea never turned into a reality. But even without making that drive into Portugal’s Faro District, the instant intrigue left an impression.
So, what’s the fuss over the Algarve? Surfers don’t expect to find the wave of their life there. Europe has plenty of options for that, yet it still has a buzz about it. Then again, even mellow waves are a welcome sight when they come with warm water and at least a feeling of being in a remote place.
“You don’t have the forest anymore like you do up north. The vegetation really changes around here. It’s drier, it’s a lot warmer,” says Nic von Rupp, who points out how close the Algarve is to Africa — just a couple hours away from the Straight of Gibraltar. “Most of the time it’s actually flat. And then when these swells show up, you’ve gotta find your peak to surf. But when you find it, it’s empty beaches with no one around. Just your friends surfing, just laughing, just having a good time.”
I think it’s fair to say most of us would actually trade being laser-focused on heaving barrels if it meant we could get away from packed lineups and hassling for waves. Even if the trade-off means taking small days on a random sandbar. Trading waves with only one friend out is tough to beat, no matter the conditions.
“This is so much more than surfing,” von Rupp admits. “It’s the vibe.”
