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The Inertia

Thanksgiving delivered a huge south swell to the Wedge in Newport Beach, California – to the delight of many surfers. I don’t ever remember seeing a swell this size at the Wedge on Thanksgiving in late November. I’ve been filming for 15 years, though, so maybe I missed it, maybe I went to Malibu? I just don’t recall a south swell this late in the season.

When I got down to the water, there was an early morning high tide, which is not good for the Wedge. Why? Well, it does really weird things to the wave. It was wild enough watching the unridden waves comes in that when they were actually ridden, it was that much more psychotic. I honestly don’t know how these guys don’t end up in the hospital on every wave. It’s just gnarly the way they detonate on the sand.

There was mostly no chance of making these barrels. It was just that big and heavy. But surfers were out attacking them anyway. Enjoy!

Find more from Brad Jacobson on his YouTube channel.  

 
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