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The Inertia

There are big days at Ocean Beach, when everyone’s out in the water – generally on the swells with longer lulls between sets, light winds and makeable sections. And then there are the big days at Ocean Beach when nobody’s in the water. There isn’t a channel to be seen, winds are blowing and it’s closing out everywhere (see short period swell). Nobody, that is, except for this guy. In the video above, an unidentified surfer paddles for over 45 minutes before making it out the back on Thanksgiving Day just a couple weeks ago. This is perseverance at its finest.

 
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