It’s a habit of mine to wander off of the beaten path in hopes of finding nearly perfect lineups. Doing so requires a great deal of commitment and no guarantee that mother nature will deliver. Something about that uncertainty is what fuels my thirst for adventure and keeps me coming back for more. Photographs help translate and interpret the way I envision surfing in my mind, then sharing that vision with the rest of the world.
When the waves are pumping, I face the same internal conflict that all surfer/photographers experience: to shoot or to surf? It’s safe to say I’d have a lot more content if I didn’t love surfing so much. But whether I’m in the water or behind a lens, with thousands of miles of coastline all over the world, it’s just a matter of getting out there and being in the right place at the right time.