Grab a wave today to honor those we’ve lost and so support those we fight for. Photo: John Barton
If you’ve been on Facebook today, you’ve probably figured out it’s World Cancer Day. Today, people around the world are celebrating survivors, championing change, inspiring people to live healthier lives, and raising awareness about cancer prevention and treatment. After all, cancer affects all of us, even surfers. So let’s talk about cancer, but not in a broad, Facebook campaign-y kind of way. Let’s talk about cancer as it relates to our icons, our heros, our friends, and our family.
This past year in our surfing community, cancer impacted two great icons of the sport. In 2015, the beloved Chief Druku Lalabalavu of Tavarua passed away at the age of 63 after a lengthy battle with cancer. Druku had fought off the disease once, but it returned a second time, inoperable. Druku was one of the first Fijians to surf his island’s waves, and he was known for his big heart and generosity. He will be greatly missed. Then just last weekend, big wave legend, Brock Little announced his battle with cancer. Little is known to his peers as one of the greatest of all time at Waimea, an accomplished surf writer, and a renowned stunt man. I have no doubt that Little will kick cancer’s ass, and I wish him all the best with his battle.
In years passed, there have been other legends who have succumbed to cancer. Rell Sunn, the Queen of Makaha, passed away far too young of breast cancer. She was only 47 when she died. Sunn was known for her graceful style and powerful spirit. When she was diagnosed at age 33, she was given only 1 year to live. She surfed every day after her diagnose, despite her pain, and she fought her battle for 14 years. Surfing also lost Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Hawaiian surfing great, to lung cancer. Known as the father of modern surfing, Buttons redefined the sport throughout the shortboard revolution of the 1970’s. Buttons passed away in 2013 at the age of 54. California legend, Malibu iconoclast, and notorious outlaw Miki Dora was about as tough as they come. In the 1950’s, “Da Cat” set the standard for style at Malibu and beyond. He was on a run for a number of years, served prison time, and never had a profession. He will forever be surfing’s antihero, but he lost his battle to pancreatic cancer at the age of 67.
These are just a few of surfing’s most famous that have fought the good fight. Now, I want you to think of all the surfers who weren’t necessarily icons of the sport. They might not have graced the pages of magazines, but you loved them all the same. Think of the friends and family members who have battled. Think of the local town hero who still paddles out after 5 rounds of chemo. Think of the young grom who lost his mom last year. Think of all the people in your life who have been touched by this painful disease. Go surf today and honor these people along with surfing’s greatest.
Today, I’ll be surfing for my dad. He’s well into his third year of battling an uncommon form of pancreatic cancer. My dad and I learned how to surf together, and he’s always been my favorite surf buddy. We used to have little competitions as to who could throw more spray: it was the only thing I’ve ever been able to beat my dad at (he’s way too athletic). He drove me to Salt Creek every morning at 6 am for 5 years, even when it was 30 degrees, and we couldn’t feel our feet for an hour after we got out. My dad can’t get in the water much anymore, but he still always wants to be in the loop about how the waves are, what the swell’s doing, and what spots I checked. You can take the surfer out of the surf, but you can’t take the surf out of the surfer, I guess. Today, I’ll be getting a good one for you, Dad.
As surfers, let’s make World Cancer Day our own, just as people from different communities around the world will today. Even if you weren’t planning on surfing, go jump in the water for an hour this afternoon. There’s no way better way to remember those we’ve lost and to support those who fight than to do what all surfers, sick and healthy, love best: ride waves.
