This past February, I visited my home town in Baja for a month to catch up with family, friends, tacos, and find some surf. Every morning, I’d wake up between 3 am and 4 am thanks to the jet lag and time zone changes between Mexico and Europe. I’d pop up fresh and ready to go, heat up some water for coffee, have a chat with my grandpa, and head out to check the waves out front.
The first Friday of my trip was the biggest day. By dawn there were already guys in the water doing jet ski step offs and pulling into perfect barrels. It was a bit too big to paddle out and get the shot myself, so I never got a front row seat of their session. I spent a lot of time swimming that day, not scoring anything myself and getting completely burnt out. The swell dropped the next couple days but it was still epic. Finally, it all dropped off and the rest of my trip was filled with crappy winds and funky swell directions. Either way, it was still fun to be home, recharging with the positive energy of my loved ones.
