Nathan Florence has surfed more than his fair share of incredible waves. His life is devoted to them, and he takes it seriously. When there’s a big swell, he wants to be there. He’ll fly to the end of the earth for one good wave. It’s a never-ending chase, but Nate’s not in it for the finish line. But in those thousands of waves he’s surfed, a few really standout. Nate believes that there will can be one best left and one best right of your life, and he recently scored a right that might’ve been it.
“I feel like what I got in this session was probably the right of my life,” he said. “As far as surfing a barrel frontside; the size, the intensity of the session, being in gear I’m not used to, the booties and the gloves and the wetsuit. On a 7’0″ I’ve never ridden but turned out to be one of the best boards ever… this wave that I rode in this session? It’s right up there.”
He’s grateful beyond belief for that wave, too. For every wave, but especially for the ones that stick out.
“There’s a certain feeling you get when you kick out,” he continued. “It’s like an overwhelming feeling of gratitude and appreciation and just disbelief that you got so lucky to be living the life that you’re living. And that there at that very moment, that wave came through and you were in the spot. Every little piece of timing, every microsecond. You made the right decision on that wave to be as deep as you possibly could.”
