You know when you’re standing on the beach waiting for a break in sets? Staring out to sea, board under your arm, looking stoic and determined, you wait patiently for the ocean to take a breath. Finally, you see your chance. Full sprint, you charge into the temporarily placid water, frantically paddling for the horizon. Halfway to the outside, though, a set far bigger than any you watched from the sand rears its head. You realize that you are now in the worst possible position, and that set is going to land directly on your head. “Oh,” you think, “to be able to turn and run!” Well, turns out turning and running is a terrible idea.
