In 1975, a couple dollar bills were stuffed in an envelope addressed to Popular Mechanics. A few days later, a fold ’n paste pinhole camera arrived. Shooting landscapes and stills on a pinhole, you learn about lines and composition the hard way. Patience and discipline.
Surfing is difficult to shoot. With landscapes, portraits or still life, you can compose lines and wait for the light. Whereas most sports are performed on a stationary playing field, surfing is shot against an ever-changing canvas of light refraction and line composition. Light and composition are the king. An epic ride with poor light or background distractions goes straight to the b-roll bin.
This part is discipline.
Meanwhile, there is a comforting cycle that comes with the seasons. Seasons build stamina. Rest and relax in the summer, keep moving during the flat spells.
This part is patience.
Pre and post-session camaraderie are essential in the cold months. Muscle memory for your camera matters when you are leaning into an ice-filled wind, swapping out batteries or changing f-stops. You can teach somebody how to dress properly but not everyone can handle the mind game you play when battling the cold. Born and bred or genetically wired. Either way, hostile environments best be in your blood because a wave pool in Texas this is not.
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