Senior Editor
Staff

The Inertia

Surfing isn’t always that interesting. It can be downright boring, in fact. Unless you’re into the mechanics of contest surfing–the paddle battles, the strategy, etc, in order for contest surfing to be exciting, the waves need to be amazing… or there needs to be a great back story. That’s where the Wrights come in.

Here’s what we said about it just after he won the Quik Pro Gold Coast:In December of 2015, Owen Wright nearly died at Pipeline. After wiping out in conditions that almost killed both

“In December of 2015, Owen Wright nearly died at Pipeline. After wiping out in conditions that almost killed both Bede Durbidge and Evan Geiselman, he stumbled up the beach and went to sleep. When he woke up, it was clear that something was very, very wrong. Soon after, a brief update said he had a concussion and would have to drop out of Pipe. Then, it was revealed that it was much more serious–bleeding on the brain, severe memory loss, and trouble speaking were a few of the supposed issues. He dropped out of the 2016 race and went quiet, concentrating on his recovery. Every now and then, though, Wright would post an update–a baby, his first surf back, etc. They were all uplifting, but hopes for an eventual return to the Owen of old waned with time. It was a tragic reality of severe head trauma.”

His sister, Tyler Wright, toyed with the idea of dropping out of the 2016 season to aid in his recovery. Instead, she aided in his recovery and won the 2016 world championship. Then, of course, he showed up at Snapper in the first event of 2017… and WON. Not only did he win, but he won against one of his best friends, defending champion Matt Wilkinson. It seemed too good to be true. It was straight out of a Hollywood script.

The story has everything: mystery, rivalry, friendship, love, and perhaps most importantly (for a storytelling point of view, at least), a comeback for the ages. Until now, there hasn’t been much of an effort to really tell it properly. Sure, we’ve all danced around it, but no one has really jumped off the deep end to get to the bottom of exactly what happened throughout that tumultuous year. ABC’s Australian Story is taking a swing. On the March 27th, they’re releasing All For The Family, a documentary about Owen’s recovery and exactly what it took. As it turns out, his sister, Tyler, was a huge part of it. Mick Fanning and Steph Gilmore are featured in it, too, along with legends like Layne Beachley. Even if you’re not a fan of competitive surfing, you’re going to want to watch this. It’s more than a story about surfing–it’s a story about love, commitment, and recovery.

 
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