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The Inertia

France was pumping last week. Some have even said it was the best surf of 2017 and a perfect way to begin the fall season.

My good friend from Holland, Roy van Eijk, is always on the hunt for swells like this, so he made the 14-hour drive to a spectacular beach break south to the land of croissants.

Roy texted me with the green light the night before and said he would be picking me up in Belgium. I canceled my other assignments and gathered my gear, giving a kiss goodbye to my wife and my three-week-old baby so I could score some sick waves.

We scored three sessions a day for the entire trip and ended each day with some delicious croissants, chocolates, and a double espresso to refuel and do the exact same thing the following morning.

I still can’t wait to do this all over again.

 
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