To the average eye, surfing a wave is the apex of the wave-riding experience. But that’s pretty far from reality. Yes, being able to rip is important. But the most important aspect of surfing, really, is paddling, navigating currents and the lineup, being in position and of course, popping up in every imaginable situation. That last one is especially important. Because if you can’t get up, you can’t surf.
Here, I examine the anatomy of stomping a steep drop on a wave. The clip at the 4:05 mark of this video is a really good example of an extremely difficult drop that the surfer makes look easy. The wave was vertical and breaking on his head. And he managed to pull it off seamlessly.
Have a look as I break down the wave, frame by frame, and look at the lighter side, when surfers don’t actually make the drop. Wipeouts happen to the best of us.
Find more from Brad Jacobson on his YouTube channel.
