Writer/Surfer

The Inertia

There are but a handful of individuals in surfing’s rich pantheon of greats that like Prince and Cher are recognizable by a single name. Dora, Gerry, Kelly, Bethany, Steph, John John (which is kind of cheating) and Laird count themselves among them.

In the case of Laird, fame and a try-anything attitude have attracted haters like moths to the flame. Still, it’s undeniable how much Laird Hamilton has contributed to the sport of surfing in every sense. He’s a big wave pioneer, almost single-handedly spurred the stand-up paddle craze, conceived of foiling with some of the earliest boards using snowboard bindings, and on, and on.

And Laird’s notoriety stretches beyond the confines of the surf world. The New Yorker profiled Laird and his retired professional volleyball star wife, Gabrielle Reece, late last year revealing NHL and NFL alumni, actors, and rugby players are often personal houseguests of the Hamiltons for a thrice-weekly underwater weight-training routine.

Like few surfers, Laird’s achievements transcend the discipline. And a new biopic titled Take Every Wave, directed by Rory Kennedy offers a glimpse into his world.

While the film has made the film festival rounds, showing at Sundance back in January, the trailer above is the first glimpse of the film that’s been made available online. It follows Laird’s path to greatness, and the highs and lows of a lifelong pursuit of conquering some of the biggest surf the world’s oceans can churn out.

For more information on the film and to find a screening near you click here.

 
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