While I attended college a few years back, I was unaware of how close I resided to one of California’s most impressive beach breaks. Anyone who has come close to a decent day there can attest to such claims. It’s neither north nor south, but stuck between two harbors, and that right there is the key. Above and below can have their days, but magic happens far more regularly in that mile stretch nestled in the center. I speak of this location with such lore and affection because I was not raised in such a place. Glassy afternoons at my home break were walled, not A-frames. In truth it is a short car ride away – the tricky part is not pissing off the indigenous tribes.
I spent a year shooting in and around this beach. I was floored at how impressive and dynamic the spot was; a wedge, A-frame, runners, even a point break. Again, it is no mystery where I am alluding to, but I’ll let it be figured out. The coastline was much more raw and apt to any change when the wind comes up, unlike the South Bay. There, if it’s hot, it’s glassy. Up here, if it’s hot, it’s usually howling offshore. The way the mountains face plays a particular role, especially during the fall and winter months. When there is a hint of Santa Annas, everyone has a keen eye, not only the on ocean, but also on the mountains east as well. Fires are quite prevalent; it makes for some crazy apocalyptic environments. It does not simply blow – hot air cascades off and down the range meeting the coastline head on with a furious flare. The result is the devil winds. During my stint, a few very powerful brush fires made their way through. One such time I ended up in the ER from the smoke.
Everything this beach had to offer – endless images, a hospital visit, sun poisoning, great friends and shit load of good waves – hold a special place within me. This small region was home to a beautiful microcosm of bathometry and weather. If you ever have the opportunity, get on it.
See more of Ricky’s amazing work on his website.
