After a morning of disappointment and awkwardness, Dane Zuan found this. Photo: Ricky Lesser
I was pretty surfed out from the long run of swell California had. We looked around early for surf and ended up at a spot right in my hometown–it was big and closed out with long waits between sets.
The funny thing is, I padded out and was getting weird vibes from a dude that I grew up surfing this spot with. The waves were pretty thick, but I was riding the wrong board. I was missing waves on a 6’4’’ because it couldn’t fit under the lip. I sat, frustrated, for at least an hour. Of course, just when I was pissed off and ready to give up, a big set comes through. Homeboy went on the first one. I was angry paddling over the edge of it, watching the wave line up perfectly. When the next one came through, it was bigger and better. I got a nice tube and kicked out straight into the next wave. It was wider down the beach, so I scratched for it just to give it a sniff. Somehow, I got over to it and slid into one of my best waves of the winter… and maybe one of my best waves ever at home.
Surfing is funny. I ended up getting two great waves and a photo I really like after a morning of disappointment and awkwardness.
-Dane Zaun
