It’s science! Click on the photo to watch the video.
Surfing is one of those things that’s very intuitive. For the average person, equations about lift and drag and velocity and wave height aren’t blurring through their brains as they’re dropping into a barreling left-hander. It’s mostly instinct. Sure, that instinct comes with practice, but when it comes down to those moments, it’s the single-mindedness of it all that makes it so enjoyable.
I’ve often thought that magic does indeed exist, but as science moves faster and faster, it’s making it easier to break down the components of it and expose how something actually works–which tends to take the magic away. But delving into how something works shouldn’t take away from how incredible it is. Just because we know how, for instance, the Northern Lights happen, it shouldn’t make them any less magic. Science has just made it possible to understand the magic.
And when Red Bull breaks down Jamie O’Brien’s board transfer at the Wedge, it only serves to show exactly how crazy it really is. Since Red Bull doesn’t allow for embedding anymore (damn it!), you’ll have to go over to their site to watch it. That’s HERE.
