There are certain days of surfing that stick in your brain forever. Sure, every day in the water is a good day, but some of those days… well, they just stand out. And if you happen to catch Hollow Trees, or Lance’s Right, or just plain ol’ HT’s on one of those days, you’re going to be telling your grandkids about it. Case in point: the recent morning you see above. By nine a.m., the wind was on it, but those who were there at the crack of dawn likely left very, very satisfied.
