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“Road Trip” is common vernacular in most surf conversations. The U.S. alone boasts hundreds of spots to surf, camp and explore, with a myriad in Southern California alone. But for those looking for a bit more adventure, a bit more road between you and reality, a chance to really go “off the grid” as they say, I suggest Tofino, British Columbia, Canada – the great lost surf mecca of the Northwest. Getting there is no easy task and takes a solid commitment, venturing into the unknown, the far reaches of the continent. But the reward for those who do commit is astounding. It’s a modern day tale of exploration, a voyage if you will, to find something much more than land and sea.
I found my way to Tofino recently on a four week journey up and down the West Coast, totally unsuspecting but infinitely thrilled at this remote paradise across the 49th northern parallel. My experiences were something out of a novel, a series of events and encounters that I thought merely existed in fiction. So if you’re willing to gather the crew, pack up the van, and hit the interstate, read on and go forth confidently towards the end of the road.
What To Bring: (The Essentials)
-Passport (if not Native Canadian)
-Canadian cash and internationally working credit card (be sure to check on international service fees)
-Clothes for warm weather, cold weather, and wet weather
-1 or 2 of your favorite boards
-4/3 or thicker wetsuit and booties, pack your gloves and hood for colder months
– 1 to 3 of your best surfing buds, preferably one with a truck/van
-Camping gear (You could stay in a hotel, but what fun is that?)
-Film/Digital Camera or your buddy that always documents everything
-Clothes Line
-Waterproof Boots and/or Hiking Shoes
-Water Bottle
-Travel Journal (trust me, you’ll want to write this shit down)
-Personal Fancy
-Foamie or SUP for fun
-A good book (Barbarian Days by William Finnegan will fit the theme of the trip nicely)
-Melatonin if you need an extra hand falling asleep on the ground
-Favorite American snacks (but have no fear, Canadian snacks are just as tasty)
-That old guitar you only break out on occasion…well now is the occasion
-Skateboard
-Bike
-Flask of cheap whiskey to share
What to Leave Behind:
-Your phone on Airplane mode – If you need to connect to Wi-Fi for emergencies, there are plenty of places to. For the most part turn it off and keep it off. Remember, this is about getting in tune with the land, not with the “man.”
-Laptop computers. They have no use now and are not worth the risk
-Any and all distracting work
-Baggage from the past and worries about the future – This is about living in the moment.
Getting There:
From the continental US, your first stop will be Vancouver BC. Whether flying or driving, this will be the most realistic option to get to Tofino. If you’re on the West Coast of the U.S. consider making the trek up. Load up the van/truck and hit the open road. East coasters, I would applaud a similar effort, but the direct flight to Vancouver and renting a van when you get there may be a more realistic option. From Vancouver, you’re going to take the ferry at Tsawwssen terminal to Duke Point, Nanaimo BC, which is about a two hour crossing. This is where having friends will come in handy. The fare for one vehicle round trip is about $110 Canadian, so with a few buddies you can split it up and get back and forth from Vancouver to Tofino for under $100 a head with gas and ferry expenses. The ferries also run discounts throughout the year, so if you’re keeping your budget tight, check on these to save some dough.
Proceeding the ferry dropoff at Duke Point is a picturesque, awe-inspiring 3-hour journey through the mountains. Follow the signs for 4 West to Tofino, they will be everywhere, and it will surely be the most beautiful drive of your life. Think Big Sur in the mountains emptying out onto the coast. You’ll pass colorful forests, sheet glass lakes, and roaring rivers; your mind will already be blown before you even pull up to the beach. Soon the land will open up, the road will widen and you’ll pass through Pacific Rim National Park, the last frontier to the end of the road. A “Welcome to Tofino” sign will greet you as you enter the small town filled with surf shops, coffee houses, and outdoor activities surrounded by water in every direction. You’re here.
Camping:
Photo: Shutterstock
My stern belief is that camping is one of the best ways to experience a place, hotels don’t do the land any justice. Your best bet for camping and surfing in one place is Greenpoint Campground, located at the base of Pacific Rim and just up the cliff from Long Beach, one of the local breaks. Greenpoint was basically cut out of a rainforest when it was developed, and sits right at the top of a 70-foot descent down to the beach. If you’re looking for something closer to town, consider Bella Pacific Camp Ground or one of the others nearby, but know it’ll be a longer walk/drive to the waves. Book in advance if possible, as the sites tend to fill up in summertime, and the beach view sites can go very very quickly. Sites go anywhere from $20-$40 a night depending on the season and the site (again, friends to split the cost will help.)
Take the time to make your camp feel comfortable, this will be home base for a few days. Ensure you’ve got your tarps in place to block the unpredictable rain showers, your line hung to let your suits drip, your fire/cooking materials handy and accessible, and your camping chairs facing the ocean. Be sure you have a headlamp/lantern with you, as the site is heavily wooded and very dark at night. Bears, cougars, and wolves are native species in those parts of the park, and while they won’t storm your campsite, be sure to keep all food and household items in bear proof containers, or leave them in the van.
Surfing:
Tofino is highly regarded as a “surfing town,” which is somewhat ironic considering the town sits in boarderline arctic territory. But nonetheless, the locals there are proud of their Northwest surfing/waterman heritage, true Canadians if you ask me. There are several consistent breaks that go at any time of year up and down the coast in Tofino. But if you’re camping at Greenpoint, Long Beach is a great place to start. A simple five minute hike down the trail leads you out onto a vast beach littered with giant driftwood forts, tide pool trails, and a fun crumbly beach break to get your day started. Hit it at first light when the winds are low and you will not be disappointed.
From there, Cox Bay is your go-to for waves. Protected from the wind and able to handle any swell, Cox is iconically labeled the “Tofino Surf Hub” by the locals. All across Cox Bay you’ll find surfers of all boards and skill levels. From the students on foamies to the seasoned locals, it has a little something for everybody, and when the offshores blow in, a perfect right stands up and runs all the way to the shore. Cox is definitely local’s territory, and while these are friendly Canadian locals as opposed to crusty Malibu longboarders or Lunada lunatics, respect should ALWAYS come with the territory. Other popular surfing spots to explore include Schooner Cove, Incinerator Rock, Chesterman Beach and Florencia Bay, each with a little something different to satisfy your wave crave and all within about a 15-minute drive of the other. Don’t be scared to hop into one of the 10 surf shops in town and ask about conditions, swell period, wind direction, tides etc., they will definitely dial you in! Remember, these are cold water conditions. Always surf with a buddy and look for early signs of frostbite in the water.
Explore:
Tofino is a highly regarded surf town, and no doubt you’ll want to surf your brains out. But if your arms feel like jello and feet are a little chilly, there are a ton of other opportunities to explore and soak in Tofitian culture. After your morning session, drive (or bike, the town has a trail that runs in and out) into town and grab a hot cup of joe at one of the eight coffee shops, all selling local Canadian roasts and all faithfully delicious. The restaurants around town are excellent as well, and half of them are on the water! Tacofino will calm your surf fuel cravings while Trilogy and Tofino Fish Company will cater your sea to table preference. Again, explore some of these options but don’t be afraid to spark up the fire, roast some sausages over an open flame and pass the flask around. Tofino also has a skate park right in the middle of town, multiple kayak, whale watching and fishing excursions, aerial tours and a mini golf course if you’re looking to arouse your nostalgic days of family vacations. The town boasts several awesome hiking trails as well, some leading to the ocean and others out to the bay but most are fairly easy, even for the occasional hiker. The beaches around town all offer a little something different as well, with large rocks and cliffs to climb, little beach trails leading to overlooks and tide pools forming around the highs and lows of the day. Last stop is Tofino Brewing Company, a proud microbrewery just outside of town where locals meet to toast after a good session. Be sure to try the Kelp Stout, a malty dark ale with just the right amount of Pacific Ocean salt to keep things weird. The night’s bonfire may even be your chance to break out that guitar.
The Road Home:
What I found so thrilling about my experience in Tofino is that it felt complete, the sum of all of the parts outweighed any single activity. While brief, I was able to immerse myself in the culture very quickly and organically experience this place in a unique way, the town welcomed me. I remember several moments of the journey when I thought to myself, “These are moments that people only dream about.” Tofino was indeed a place that felt like a dream in the sense that it was so unique, so unlike anything I had ever experienced before, that it almost didn’t seem real. Moments in time seemed to stand still: the warm morning sun peeking over your shoulder as you scan the horizon for incoming waves, the local chatter overheard in the coffee shop after the morning session, the laughs and clinking of pint glasses, the hoots and hollers when a set rolls in, the diverse range of cracks and hisses from an evening fire. I remember thinking about all the people who may never experience this, who may never sit where I’m sitting doing what I’m doing right now, and dammit was it humbling. All these moments are embedded into the Tofino DNA; they make this town feel like home. While surfing was a huge part of the trip, it was in no way the only part. Tofino has it all, and provides a little something for people of all lifestyles. Remember to respect the people, respect the land, respect the wildlife and in turn, respect the journey.
So what are you waiting for? Call up the homies, gas up the van, buy the ticket and take the ride. Adventure is out there for you to find, to experience and to cherish. Keep in mind that Tofino is an unforgettable destination, but the journey along the way will provide just the same.
