Stephanie Gilmore after her come-from-behind win over Carissa Moore at the WSL Finals in 2022. Photo: Beatriz Ryder//WSL
Editor’s Note: One of our most trusted contributing writers, Ben Mondy, has released a new tome, The Breitling Book Of Surfing, through Rizzoli Publishing. It’s available at all online booksellers. He writes about his interview with Stephanie Gilmore, below.
Back in January 2024, Stephanie Gilmore announced that she was taking a break from competitive surfing for 12 months. “I don’t like the word retirement,” she said. “I like to say a departure from the tour, or just stepping back, or switching gears, or, like, evolving.”
That decision made more sense when the announcement came a few months later that she had signed a new eight-year multi-million deal with Rip Curl. Gilmore said she, “was set to embark on ‘the Search’ – traveling the world to feel that freedom and to discover the most exceptional waves, adventures, and experiences.” Nice work if you can get it.
Now these decisions don’t come quick. Steph, and her inner circle, probably pondered her next move for quite some time. In a new coffee table book The Breitling Book Of Surfing, I got an insight into that decision-making process. Steph provided the introduction and opened up on parts of her life, career, mindset and community. And how her dramatic eighth world title that was the catalyst for change.
Going through the conversation held back in 2023, there were plenty of signs that showed where Steph was at, and where she might be headed. Like another chapter in the book with Kelly Slater, the female GOAT had equal measures of retrospection on an incredible career, but plenty of belief that she was nowhere done with this thing called surfing yet. In an exclusive, edited extract for The Inertia, Steph spoke in her own words on a series of subjects that give a glimpse into the road map of a surfing icon.
On Her Eighth World Title
“With Carissa Moore surfing so strong and a lot of the younger women so incredibly hungry, I’d come to terms with winning seven titles. But then I had the opportunity in the WSL Finals in 2023 to have a go and see if I could do it. I just poured my heart into it and turns out I still have it. It was a real test of my mental strength and self-belief. It was the highlight of my career. Man, it was just unreal.”
On the WSL Finals Concept
“I’m a massive sports fan. In Australia, all our sports have a grand final, when you know the champions will be crowned. I love that sporting tension and I always switch on. The new format gave me that feeling. Carissa and I really haven’t surfed against each other too much throughout our careers. So to have that moment, where I was able to build some momentum, and then finally meet her in the final was incredible. I think Carissa’s the strongest female surfer that we’ve ever seen. The final was a rare, true sporting moment and a real test of mental strength and self-belief. But I won, so I would say that wouldn’t I! (laughs).”
On the Need for Adventure
“After that win, which was such a huge moment in my career, it was kinda crazy for a while. And then I just took off straight up to Tofino on Vancouver Island to go on a surf trip with friends. We were in the middle of the Canadian wilderness surfing by ourselves. There were bears on the beach and orcas swimming around. For me, that was the perfect way to refuel the tank. You tap into what makes you feel alive; and that is surfing new waves, meeting other surfers, and hearing their stories. The trophies and everything are awesome, but I just find that it’s on those trips where I find I get back to myself the most. Contests are draining, and it takes a lot of energy. I love it so much, but yeah, you need to find the balance.”
There’s more in here from Steph.
On Snapper Rocks
“I must credit the community of Coolangatta and Snapper Rocks as one of the greatest teachers in my life, to be surfing such excellent waves, and to be surrounded by world champions and world-class surfing at all times. Everything is heightened because there are so many people and it’s just an intense crowd, but that’s how I learned how to read waves. Early on, there were maybe only three girls in the water regularly, but I knew there was a turning point coming. I sensed that some of the best surfers in the world were enjoying my approach and that it was something new and exciting. And crucially, they wanted to help me to be a better surfer. I was really lucky that I had that unique environment growing up.”
On Success
“My dad’s still out at the Superbank every single day dropping in on everyone (laughs). He’s almost 70 years old. And he loves it. That’s the passion that I’m super inspired by. He surfs more than anyone that I know. And if he’s not surfing, he’s foiling, or swimming or doing whatever it takes to be in the ocean. So I’m constantly inspired by his passion for just being active and how he puts surfing, the thing that makes him the most happy, at the heart of everything he does. That’s what I call success.”
