Back to this. Photo: Chris Grundy
Southern California is getting soft. Hold on there a second, you angry, prideful San Diego native; allow me to explain myself. I am talking, of course, about the recent emergence of the soft-top surfboard. Once dominated by children in surf camps and visiting relatives from Arkansas, these user-friendly boards have become the tool of choice for surfers of all levels in anywhere from two-foot mush to overhead, hollow waves. Perhaps the popularity came from Jamie O’Brien’s fearless attack on Pipeline with Costco’s Wavestorm, or the enticing advertising from Catch Surf. Whatever the reason, you’ll be hard-pressed to paddle out nearly anywhere in SoCal without seeing at least one soft top.
Still, I first questioned this foolish trend. Until I tried it, that is. With an eight-foot foam board costing around a hundred bucks at Costco, surely this rubber-finned toy can’t match the performance of a “real” board. This is true, it cannot. But the fun doesn’t lie in the craftsmanship or legitimacy of the board, but rather what it represents. Let me briefly remind you of the current state and future of surfing. Sponsors, stiff competition, unapologetic advertising, and heavily attended contests overshadow the elements that once drew people into surfing. Surfing will soon be as popular as other mainstream American sports, and the soccer mom will be replaced with surfer moms dropping their kids off at the beach. Remember mom; it’s your turn to bring the orange slices next week. Honestly, I don’t have a problem with the mainstream – I’m no hipster. But give me a break. Surfing is one Gatorade endorsement away from being a NCAA recognized sport.
Luckily, these soft-top boards seem to be fighting the 21st century face of surfing with great enthusiasm. With commercialized surfing comes a sense of seriousness and extreme douchebaggery, and while this may not be an issue for the high performing professionals that dominate the sport, it may simply suck for the average surfer. Here is where the beauty lies with the soft-top. It is hard to take yourself seriously as you drop into a five-foot wave with a Wavestorm, and harder still while attempting maneuvers that you are accustomed to doing on your 5’11 thruster. The most mundane parts of surfing become exciting again, and a shit-eating grin will encompass your face as you fire down the line into a closeout. Let’s face it; this is much more fun then trying to compete with super groms as they spin their 110-pound, scrawny frames through the air. Yes, I see that you are sponsored, I am so very happy for you. Instead, toss all of that away, forget about your image, and pick up an all foam board. But wait a second; surfing is now about big airs and even bigger barrels. Isn’t this taking a few steps back? You’re damn right it is. However, if you are a part of the 99% of the surfing population that isn’t professional, then relax, because your next paycheck is not dependent on whether or not you score a perfect ten at the U.S. Open. Take this time to enjoy the fact that only pure enjoyment should be involved with surfing.
This is not a shameless promotion for Costco’s fine line of surfboards. In fact, my point is the opposite of consumerism, and I hope this acts more as a how-to guide than anything else. If you find yourself exhausted by the competition at your local lineup, the endless advertisements in surf magazines, and the thousands of yuppies that flock to surf contests and may or may not start a riot, try simplifying your surfing experience. Find the least crowded spot possible (this is the hardest part), obtain a surfboard that is likely designed for children and beginners (I almost insist that it be a longboard), bring a few friends, and watch with a smile as you turn into a child, once again becoming stoked by the simple act surfing. Southern Californians, I urge you to continue to be soft. It looks good on you.
