Stoked! Photo: Shutterstock
Anyone who has thought about learning to surf must know it’s not simply about riding waves. As the expression goes, only a surfer knows the feeling. It’s not just the physical aspect of paddling, standing up, and riding the thrill of a wave that many of us enjoy. It’s much, much more than that.
Anticipation, excitement, joy, fear, and humility are just a handful of emotions surfers will feel on any given day. There’s the anticipation of the next big swell, or the exhilaration of riding Mother Nature’s powerful forces, or even the humbling feeling after being thrown around like a rag doll in a mishmash of churning whitewater. There’s massive joy when seeing your friends on an amazing wave. It’s all part of the challenging yet profoundly satisfying surf lifestyle.
From a wellness perspective, surfing doesn’t just help you stay physically fit and feeling healthy, it can also be a form of meditation with the associated benefits including increasing one’s happiness and concentration. Paddling out in the ocean also offers a connection with Mother Nature as well as an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Feeling the flow while riding a wave, having complete awareness of your surroundings and senses, is a highly pleasurable moment in time and can be quite liberating.
It does take a bit of boldness and courage to step out of one’s comfort zone but slow your roll, Bodhi — I’m not saying surfing the biggest wave you can find is what it takes to be adventurous. Simply taking on any new challenge can be considered an audacious act. Like learning any other new task, skill, or sport, trying something for the first time can be scary. It can be frustrating and even intimidating. Fear of the unknown and unpredictable is usually what prevents us from taking the plunge or even the first step. Also known as “False Evidence Appearing Real,” fear can often be the only thing stopping you from trying something new.
Learning to surf is no exception, however the unique experiences, new perceptions, and positive outcomes that come with trying it can show people a life they never imagined. It offers opportunities for both mental and physical challenges. It can create a life of exciting adventure and the chance to travel. It creates inspiration to explore earth’s natural beauty and even ponder our existence. And it’s also a guaranteed way to meet new people from around the world, appreciate and learn about different cultures, and develop genuine friendships with people who share a common love.
Is it all worth some treading through uncertainty and challenges? Always. Because on the other side of doing anything fearful is the sense of accomplishment, personal growth, and self-discovery.
It’s all part of the daring adventure. And you’ll never know unless you try.
