Senior Editor
Staff

The Inertia

If you’re surfing Snapper Rocks, you’re not surfing it alone. When it’s good, you’re not even surfing it with just a few other people out. You’re surfing Snapper as a part of a mob of surfers, all battling each other for just one of those perfect waves.

The wave is so good that it might be worth the hassle, but it’s not going to be one of those surfs that calms the mind and washes the worries away. Those are getting harder and harder to find, aren’t they?

Case in point: the chaos you see in the video above, courtesy of Jesse Little Creative. Since Snapper sits in front of one of the most surf-stoked populations on Earth, it’s got two things in particular. Crowds, as I mentioned, but also a lot of really, really good surfers.

You’re not just fighting a lot of other people for a wave, but you’re fighting a lot of other people who know how to get waves. Everyone’s sitting a little deeper than the other. Everyone is hoping you’re going to blow the take off so they can take your place. And many times, those some of those everyones don’t much care whether you didn’t blow the take off — they’re going anyway. Fun, right?

The short video above gives the viewer a good general feeling about what it’s actually like surfing in one of the world’s most packed lineups. The barrels are worth a whole lot of headache, that’s for sure, but there’s a good chance that more than a few of the people surfing on that particular day went home feeling frustrated. But that’s surfing, isn’t it? The bad days are what make those good days so special, and the good days are so good we just keep on coming back for them.

 
Newsletter

Only the best. We promise.

Contribute

Join our community of contributors.

Apply