Last week I accidentally stumbled upon a new surf spot right in my back yard. For most this might not seem like a big deal, but in a town where the winter population is below 1,000 human beings it is a huge deal. I had first surfed it just before dark in the midst of a coffee date with my girlfriend. Two days later I woke up to start my daily routine of checking the surf forecast.
I looked at my local report and asked “can it be!?” It was the same extremely rare swell forecast as the night I scored my bay wave. The major difference was this time the forecast called for waves that would be four times bigger. Thank the heavens I didn’t miss incoming tide. So in that moment I did what any true surfer would do; I shut my laptop, forgot about work for the day, suited up and headed down the street. The moment I saw for myself I called Rob Kelly because I knew it was surely on.
A week ago I had never even considered surfing this wave. Life is full of surprises. Never allow yourself to define reality, because when you least expect it everything can change.
Enjoy!
– Love, Gravy
