Photo: Instagram
Ross Clarke Jones is on a short list of people who are synonymous with big wave surfing. He was the first non-Hawaiian to ever win the Eddie back at the turn of the 21st Century and he honestly hasn’t slowed down since. Now in his early 50s, RCJ is still going strong. Here’s a quick dive inside the mind of the man himself.
Are you completely mad?
No, I’m definitely not completely mad. If you call mad following your lifelong passion — doing what I love — then I’m guilty. I’m completely insane.
What’s going through your mind before you go out and surf 60-foot Nazaré?
I’ve got trouble sleeping at the best of times but before a big swell, I like to get at least 4 hours sleep. I’ll get up early. I won’t do a check — just get ready and get my skis ready — only focusing on my (jet ski) partners for that day’s feedback and head out as early as possible.
I like to get the first wave of the day to wake up and focused.
You are now sitting out the back. There’s a 60-foot wave coming your way and you’re in position. What’s that rush feel like?
GO, GO, GO! The excitement level steps up a notch – taking on a few deep breaths then relaxing my mind and tightening every muscle, I can to give strength to my legs. After I complete the ride and there isn’t a set to follow, another rush of excitement follows similar to an orgasm.
Do you get a sense of “If I mess this one up then it could be devastating?” Or is all negativity pushed to the back of your head?
Yes, all negative thoughts are eliminated as they just manifest.
Explain to us what happened in the canyon (Nazaré) recently. Is that the worst situation you’ve ever been in?
I caught my first wave of the morning. Carlos Burle towed me in, went right on a medium sized wave, completely misjudged the rip which was on the inside, and hit the ripples and lost speed. By this stage, it was too late for a bottom turn. I ejected and kicked the board out. I got hammered a little but nothing too brutal, got dragged along the bottom. I didn’t pull the tabs on my Quiksilver Airlift fast, thinking I was fine and would come up fairly quickly. Maybe I waited too long as when I eventually pulled the tab, I came to the surface and came up right in front of the rocks, past the cave already. Maybe if I had pulled the tab on impact, I potentially may have washed up to the beach and not gotten stuck in the undertow which acted like a conveyer belt.
I wouldn’t consider this as one of the worst situations I’ve been in, though. Not even in the top 20.
Worst beatdown you’ve ever endured?
I think the worst would be in Mentawai in 1982; the Maiden Voyage with Captain Mark Daly, Tom Carroll and Martin (Potts) Potter, Stuart Cadden, Paul Graham, and a bunch of friends.
Best session of your life?
Nazaré. January 18th, 2018.
For a 51-year-old man, what you’re doing is incredible. Do you ever see yourself slowing down?
Of course. At some stage there will be no slowing down, it will all just come to a stop.
What has been the biggest stand out moment of your life? Is there anything you wish you could have done differently?
Winning the Eddie would have to be one. It was a 15-year dream come true, plus it changed my career. Now I have a prestigious title to my name. I wouldn’t change a single thing.
What does the future have in store for RSJ?
The future is a mystery of this wonderful life I’m leading. I do have some projects that I’m working on for this year but I can’t tell you just yet.
Ireland? Surely Aileens or Mullaghmore must be enticing to you in a sadistic sort of way.
Yes, I’ve been invited by Peter Conroy and I really want to take him up on that offer. I surfed Mullaghmore last year and really loved the vibe. Great bunch of guys and absolute chargers!
I have an Irish surf legend beside me right now. We wanted to check your memory after all the years of 50-foot waves landing on top of you. Do you remember surfing against Irish surfer Andy Hill in the 1986 World Surfing Championships?
Yes, believe it or not. Surprisingly I do remember having his name on my heat draw after all these years.
