After tearing my patellar tendon in my left knee last April, I was forced to sit on the sidelines for nine months. While I was visiting doctor’s offices, attending physical therapy, and basically checking out of anything ocean related, my friends were chasing swells, stacking clips, and having all kinds of fun. After doing virtually nothing for several months and letting my injuries heal, even a one-foot, onshore beach break was appetizing.
As difficult as that down time was, I now realize how lucky I am. During my first visit to the emergency room there was uncertainty to whether or not I’d ever surf again. It was terrifying. But through hard work and determination, here I am now, 10 months after surgery, wrapping up my first surf contest since my injury. Thanks for watching!
