Phyllis O’Donnell surfed for surfing’s sake. Photo: Unknown
On November 6, 2024, Phyllis O’Donnell, the first-ever female winner at the 1964 World Surfing Championships, passed away at 87 years old. O’Donnell’s surfing style was lively but smooth, and her personality was endearing, bold, and memorable.
As the year comes to a close, I wanted to pay tribute to Phyllis O’Donnell. She holds a special place in my heart because in the world of surfing, by your mid-20s, it’s easy to feel “washed up.” The most recent undisputed world champion on the women’s side (Caity Simmers) won at just 18-years-old. This year’s female Pipe Masters champion was 17-year-old Erin Brooks. Even throughout history, there are instances of young women champions: Margo Oberg, for one, clinched her first world title at only 15. We live in an age where teenagers taking wins is not out of the ordinary, and in fact, it is almost normal. All of this is precisely why Phyllis O’Donnell was not just a champion and legendary surfer during the era which she reigned supreme, but also a hero and symbol of hope to every surfer today.
I say this because Phyllis O’Donnell did not start surfing until she was 23. At the time, the Australian beach boys laughed at her. She almost quit surfing altogether, but ultimately, the boys’ comments didn’t stop her from winning the Australian National Titles in 1964 at 27 years old. Shortly after, O’Donnell also won the first-ever World Championships at Manly Beach in front of a huge crowd. Perhaps this is partially due to her informal mentoring from Snowy McAlister.
Matt Warshaw importantly notes in the Encyclopedia of Surfing that at Manly, O’Donnell was the oldest competitor by over three years, even beating out California’s fierce competitor Linda Benson with her phenomenal surf style (and an on-the-board 360). She also won the title just before Midget Farrelly that day (and Midget was six years younger than her), as the men’s heat came second. O’Donnell was, of course, a regular at Manly.
A Tracks profile of O’Donnell doubled down on how Phyllis addressed her age in the water, reporting that Phyllis was not afraid to give some attitude to whoever was out there with her. O’Donnell explains that one time, she was surfing at Rainbow Bay and “had a pink rinse put through my hair. These guys were laughing. I said, ‘What are you laughing at?’ They said ‘you’. They said, ‘we haven’t seen anyone as old as you surfing.’ Well, I was only 29. Anyhow, one guy dropped in on me, I got him by his wetsuit and pushed him into the rocks. You know, don’t mess with the old girl.”
Although O’Donnell is known for her ability to regulate (terrorize) the lineup, this was hardly always her demeanor. In fact, Sean Doherty wrote that O’Donnell was not only the world-title winner, but a stylish, down-to-earth, and carefree champion at that. Doherty wrote that a radio station was hosting a stomp down the beach from the contest, and the music carried out to the water. O’Donnell said later that “they started playing this really groovy music and I totally went along with it… If they hadn’t played the groovy music I don’t think I would have won.” A surfer’s surfer, O’Donnell won the contest without competition being her sole focus. “I forgot about the crowd and the surfing. I was there for fun,” she said.
It’s probably good O’Donnell was competing mostly for fun, because her prize for winning the world title was a pack of Craven A cigarettes. This was fine by O’Donnell at the time, who (along with everyone else) thoroughly enjoyed her cigarettes. Never one to put on an act of perfect behavior (and frankly, the top surfers today could take a page from O’Donnell’s book), Phyllis made no secret of her love of eating, drinking, and… being merry. All of this, of course, in far-off locations like Puerto Rico, California, the South Pacific, and, most of all, Hawaii. A Sunset Beach aficionado, Phyllis O’Donnell reportedly visited Hawaii 18 times during the course of her lifetime.
O’Donnell was a judge at the Australian Women’s Surfing Association’s 1980 National Championships and in 1996 became the second-ever woman to be inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame.
As I mentioned, Phyllis O’Donnell holds a special place in my – and many surfers’ – heart for her pure, soulful dedication to having fun and surfing the world. She lived our wildest dreams. In fact, it’s fair to say she informed our dreams, all while leaving a legacy behind reminding us that you don’t need to fit into a box to be part of surfing’s culture. Man or woman, young or old, surfing is surfing, and it’s best enjoyed to a jazzy tune… or barking at someone who drops in on you.
