Every surfer searches for their magic board – that one piece of foam and fiberglass that fits their specific brand of surfing like a glove. Sometimes you just luck into that board without knowing how or why it works for you. Other times it takes years of self-aware surfing, examining your own style, what you’re best at, where and how you can be better, and of course, which waves you surf the best. Pancho Sullivan is in the latter category. He’s dedicated so much of his life to one particular wave that his search for the magic board has become a 20 year project.
So what does it take to create the perfect board for Sunset Beach? What’s so special about that wave anyway? And is Sullivan’s obsession with mastery bringing us back to the good ole days where Sunset Beach was one of surfing’s ultimate proving grounds?
