By the time we launched the ski and got up to Peahi, it was about 8 a.m. The waves were a bit smaller than anticipated, but the conditions were absolutely perfect. This particular swell was a great direction for Jaws, as the west pulse made the West Bowl super hollow. In the two days of the swell’s peak, I witnessed some of the craziest, most hollow barrels I’ve ever seen at Jaws.
I was in the lineup for only twenty minutes before I got this one. I still can’t believe how all of the elements came together so perfectly. I had been dreaming of this exact wave for years. It felt like déjà vu because it already happened in my mind so many times. It was so surreal. I feel beyond grateful to my guardian angels for sending me that wave. I truly believe it was sent to me. I was meant to catch that wave. I don’t know what it will be in the long run, but I hope that this wave has helped women’s surfing in some way. It was the best wave of my life, but all I can think about now is getting one bigger and better.
