Owen Wright announced to the world that he would be hanging up the jersey on March 21, 2023. It was a sad announcement for fans of pro surfing. Wright was a staple — especially when the waves were heavy and hollow — and his absence is sorely missed. His reason for stepping away, though, is understandable.
“After my traumatic brain injury in 2015, my desire to prove to myself and the world that I could still be great and overcome this life-threatening incident inspired my recovery,” Wright wrote on Instagram at the time. “Now eight years later, after challenges and accomplishments, I can look back happily, knowing I achieved that goal. Today, I am sharing the news that I will retire from competing at the highest level of surfing. My last event will be at the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, where I look forward to celebrating my career and thanking my fans, friends, and family for all their support over the years.”
That’s not to say that Wright quit surfing altogether. It’s just to say he’s not surfing on the CT or waves of consequence anymore, which is was a smart decision.
“I will not retire from surfing altogether – just from surfing heavy waves,” he continued. “I hope to keep surfing for the rest of my life; I love surfing and thank the sport for everything I have.”
Wright recently sat down with Mark Howard for an episode of The Howie Games. Howard, if you’re not up to date, runs the podcast “where the biggest names in the world of sport go one-on-one.” He’s got a wealth of experience interviewing people — two decades of sports broadcasting will do that — and his conversation with Wright is inspiration and moving.
Wright was refreshingly candid about many things in his life, like dealing with being a child prodigy, facing down death, and navigating all the strange things that come with being one of the best in the world at something. It’s a quick listen, but it’s well worth it.
Check out Owen’s book, Against the Water, which is available now!