The ocean is passion at its finest. My life seems to be absorbed by it. So when it’s not near, it’s as if something is missing — because something truly is.
My passion for the ocean has determined my life path… where I went to college, where I have lived and will allow myself to live, and the type of woman I wanted and, luckily, have married and love to this day. In other words, the ocean is a priority. Not numero uno (because, let’s face it, there are more important things), but very much near the top.
I’ve been fortunate enough to not only live in and surf some different places, but to shoot them. While memory is a powerful tool, it really does something more for you when you are able to look back at the past through moments you’ve personally captured. It makes memories more intimate, even embellishes them a bit. I figure that, in time, I won’t be able to play around in the ocean the same way I do now because of different life responsibilities and just getting older. So I might as well have some moments from the past to show for it.
Whether people like the moments I’ve taken with a camera or not doesn’t really matter to me. I suppose that mentality comes from the fact that I’m a bodyboarder, first, and photographer, second. I’m used to not listening to what others tell me is cool. Instead, I just do what I like to do because I like to do it. Because I think it’s cool.
To me, that is passion. When you do what you like to do because you like to do it. Not because other people are telling you it’s this or that. I suppose the ocean is kind of like that, too. It does as it will… doesn’t ask for permission, doesn’t asked to be accepted by anyone. That’s why having a passion for the ocean is truly a healthy thing to live for and be absorbed by.
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