Don’t get me wrong, I love surfing (on a board) as much as anyone. Surfboards are my livelihood and I’ve been shaping them for over 15 years. Like many addictions, surfing can occasionally start to taste stale, and it’s a shaper’s job to appease surfers’ hunger for new feelings under foot. We constantly offer new, “magical” designs, promise to change your perspective and occasionally surprise you with something truly unique. That said, I have a confession to make. Sometimes the best way to put the mojo back in your surf life isn’t with new board at all (though it doesn’t hurt and if you’re having problems I’m always here to help). Rather, sometimes the best way to keep boredom at bay and rekindle that relationship with the ocean is to strip down to just a pair of fins, kick your way into the glory hole and make the most of those heavenly pits! If that doesn’t work, try throwing a chicken mask or inflatable pool toy into the mix.
The following video documents a group of wave riders on their quest to rediscover their surf mojo somewhere along the Seven Mile Mirracle. Suffice it to say, they found it.
Disclaimer: This video contains partial nudity and a bunch of ridiculous antics which can be followed more closely here.