Photo: Nic Von Rupp // YouTube
The latest episode of the Nic Von Rupp series Mountains of the Sea digs into the mentality of big wave surfers. The video features Von Rupp, Clement Roseyro and Tó Cardoso – three chargers who have made Nazaré their home. In talking head interviews, the trio answer questions about their experiences in the sport of big wave surfing.
Of particular interest is the topic of fear – a sensation all three have an intimate relationship with. “Fear is always present,” explains Von Rupp. “All those people that say they’re fearless, either they’re completely crazy or, you know, they’re lying.”
Meanwhile, Cardoso describes fear the way one would reminisce about and old friend. “I feel fear and I like it,” he says. “It’s fear that makes me feel alive and feel safe, too. If I didn’t feel fear, I would be dead by now.”
From there, they continue to discuss a wide range of topics, from the importance of one’s team at the world’s most dangerous breaks, to whether they would ever stop chasing big waves, to what pre-game rituals they use to prepare for a session. It’s fascinating stuff, and gives a unique glimpse into the mind of some of the world’s greatest chargers.
