Full disclosure – if you came for Neil, he’s not actually hosting this podcast. Glad we got that out of the way.
Too often we as surfers are so enveloped in the incredibly complex prospect of riding waves that literally travel for hundreds of thousands of miles before they show up at our local. We pull up a forecast on our phones or computers days in advance of a session and plan accordingly. But the task of forecasting and the simple fact that waves can travel such immense distances is pretty incredible.
In this episode of “Playing with Science,” co-hosts Gary O’Reilly and comedian Chuck Nice (non-surfers themselves) dissect some of the most interesting scientific explanations for big waves and big wave surfing with guests Dr. William Patzert of NASA, and Paige Alms.
Around 13:10 Dr. Patzert explains how waves coming from opposite directions can combine to make bigger waves – a process Chuck refers to as “wave sex.”
