The majority of surfers in the world will never get barreled at Teahupo’o. Which, if we’re being honest, is probably a good thing. A wave like that is not for the majority of surfers in the world — too shallow, too heavy, too throaty — but the majority of surfers in the world certainly can dream about it.
Nathan Florence is not in the majority. He’s spent more time under the curtain at Chopes than most and he’s about as comfortable as one can be on a wave that is not a comfortable wave to surf. He was there a while back for a swell that produced waves of ungodly proportions, but on either end of the huge days, there were days that were… a little more average. Above, he’s dropped a raw POV clip from a few of those days, and it’s a good look at what it’s like being behind Nathan Florence’s eyes when he’s inside a Chopes barrel.
