Photo: Nathan Florence // YouTube
The latest video from Nathan Florence hearkens back to the bygone era of two weeks ago, when he was in Portugal for the Big Wave Challenge awards. He ended up winning Men’s Surfer of the Year, and his his vlog gave us a glimpse at a pre-awards heavy water session that reminded us of why he won the honor.
“Just got out of the water. Absolute score,” crowed Florence after paddling out with brother Ivan at the unnamed break. “Just me and Ivan and a heaving slab for two hours straight. Perfect conditions, offshore, crazy quick period. They’re just popping up and then just perfect wedges. [I was] able to get in behind them and shoot through these huge barrels.”
Of course, the wave did have its downsides: namely a series of hazards attempting to kill the brothers, that Nathan described with his trademark apathy. “Rock factor: very high,” he continued. “We got washed across the rocks multiple times. Ivan got washed across the rocks. I got washed across the rocks. But no mortal injuries, just good times. Sketchy paddle-out, shallow slab. It’s a good day.”
