These are some of the evening nuggets with only like three guys out and us. We were trying to surf from dawn to dusk and try to make the trip worth it after a 15 hour drive to paradise.
One of the awesome things every morning for surf checks was that we got to see some of these magical sunrises.
This dark session was crazy. I set up the flash on my camera and we paddled out before sunrise. Only Roy and I were out there with some surfers on the shore waiting for the sun to come out while they just saw our flashes in the lineup. It was kinda sketchy and some moments I felt a little bit scared of having tons of water breaking on my head without seeing anything.
The face you make when you see the world through a water framed window.
Roy surfed all day here. We did three hour sessions all day, going back in to refuel, then back out for more even if it wasn’t that clean. Even when the wind was sideshore he kept charging like a champ.
After driving almost 15 hours from Holland to Hossegor, France, and after barely sleeping, we went out the first morning with nobody else out. It was crazy not to see anyone in the water but it was more fun to see Roy scoring a huge barrel to start day one. I was lucky to be there to capture the moment.
Roy was the first one out in the water while some other surfers waited to see what he would get. After he scored an epic barrel the rest of the surfers started to paddle out.
This day was gnarly. We didn’t see any of the locals out and I realize there was probably a reason for that. Unfortunately we called it a day.
