This isn’t Orange County. Or San Diego. Or any other arena for your typical good-to-epic south swell. I will admit, though, we do score some mental days during summer, but the vibe is not at all what you’d find elsewhere. But that’s precisely what we love about it.
Braden Jones and I were pretty hungry to score some swell after getting skunked in Santa Cruz the week before, so we drove a solid hour from home before we rolled up on a fun-looking left. Braden picked off some good ones, and it’s sessions like these that remind us of home’s unique trademark it has stamped on the West Coast—no crowds, no materialistic bull crap. Just jagged coastline and finding solitude with the amigos, in and out of the water. Cheers to a good start to summer.
See more of Colin’s photography on his website and Instagram.
