There are a lot of similarities. Photos: (L) Martin Marek, (R) Cesinha Feliciano
Nic von Rupp once told me that the notorious Portuguese big wave surf break Nazaré — surfing’s Mount Everest — is like a moving mountain of water coming to eat you alive.
The comparisons of big waves and peaks like Everest are not new. Many surf writers label a big wave discovery eponymously with the great Himalayan peak. But one of the first to do it was writer and mountaineer Jon Krakauer with Waimea Bay in 1994 – two years before his infamous ascent of Mount Everest.
Big wave surfing and mountaineering might seem like different pursuits of nature — one fluid and one solid — but they’re kindred spirits on many levels.
Roots
The American bum life in the post-Second World War era inspired many youths to spend their days chasing excitement in the outdoors. Climbers and surfers notoriously lived in vans off of little to no money, and dedicated their time to pushing the limits of what could be done.
There wasn’t major money in either pursuit in the bum era. But the evolution of equipment and the brilliance of performance brought each into the limelight for the incredible achievements made in the arena of human versus nature.
Gear
Take care of your gear and your gear will take care of you. It’s a phrase surfers and climbers hold close to their hearts. You might not realize it, but both athletes have comparable gear in the packout list.
- Gas – Both athletes use a form of gas when operating with limited air. Big wave surfers often utilize CO2 cartridges in their inflatable vests, which help the rider surface from a wipeout. Many climbers ascend high altitude peaks with the assistance of oxygen bottles due to the decrease in partial pressure of oxygen.
- Ropes – Climbers utilize ropes for many reasons, but its overall purpose is to keep the climber(s) on the mountain. Fixed ropes are a lifeline on sections of Everest. Surfers use a tow rope to ride behind a Jet Ski and launch into a massive wave, while those who chose to paddle use a leg rope (leash) to stay connected to the board.
- Foot Stability – Above the snow line, climbers attach crampons to their boots for traction on ice and hard packed snow. In a similar fashion, tow-in big wave surfers attach foot straps on the board to give stability in chop and when climbing whitewater.
Risk and Safety
When it comes to climbing and surfing, the last thing you want to do is fall off the lip.
In the early days of either sport, risk largely fell onto the individual. Risks were taken in a more calculated manner. Those with a more cavalier approach were experts who studied their craft in detail, and knew when the reward was worth it.
Developments in equipment and methods, however opened up both big wave surfing and climbing to less experienced people. We’ve all seen the famous images of the hordes crowding the Hillary Step on Everest. And Nazaré can be a jumbled crowd of tow-in and paddle surfers on “smaller” days.
For surfing, water safety crews use Jet Ski teams to conduct rescues when someone wipes out in the danger zone. Instead of taking a beating, and potentially swimming back to the boat, a well coordinated team of Jet Ski drivers — often locals doing the Lord’s work — can quickly recover a surfer.
In climbing, the equivalent of a Jet Ski crew is the Sherpa: a local guide for mountaineering in the Himalayas. These skilled locals often lug less experienced climbers and their gear up the mountain. Fixing ropes, carrying oxygen, food, and water are all a part of the trade. For many climbers, ascent would be impossible — if not a death sentence — without Sherpas to negotiate the mountain for them.
Even those at the top of the game may take more risks with these safety nets. They fear that this may lead to more danger as people expose themselves to the merciless forces of nature when it all goes wrong. So what are the odds of losing a life in these extreme conditions?
Everest death rates still hover around one percent, despite the influx of climbers. However, 2019 saw 11 perish on the mountain and in 2023 18 climbers lost their lives — the deadliest season on record. Big wave surfing (25 feet-plus) has claimed several high-profile surfers lives, most recently Marcio Freire in 2023. While deaths in big wave surfing are expected, they are not the normal.
In terms of risk with surfing and climbing, the numbers may seem in your favor, but the potential for the worst is always there when you dance with nature.
Big Drops and Big Rocks
Big wave surfing and mountaineering share elements of danger, gear, and even its roots. But the most obvious connection between the two is big nature. And whether you drop in on a big wave or take the climb up a big rock, there’s one thing that’s for certain: both leave you with a deep appreciation of nature, and both suck when they’re crowded.
