These days, there’s an abundance of information around life-hacking this and age-proofing that all geared toward strategies to curb the passage of time and its effects on the human body. We’re willing to accept that we age, but few are willing to sacrifice the activities they love as a result. Least of which surfers.
It might be easy to imagine longboarding well into one’s twilight years, but can you believe that at 62 the inimitable Michael Ho is packing double overhead closeouts at Pipeline on the reg? Maybe the key to longevity in surfing waves of consequence is more straightforward than it sounds: don’t ever stop. That, and maybe a shaved head wards off Father Time. We’ll have to corroborate that one with Kelly Slater.