
The North Shore is an interesting place. There are a lot of insanely good waves, all basically shoulder-to-shoulder. Tiny variations in a swell’s degree make different waves do different things, but you never really know where it’s going to be the best until you see it with your own eyes. And since nature is ever changing, a certain wave may only be its best during a small window of time. This can often lead to one of two things: crushing disappointment or a very happy surprise.
“You have to always be searching for that magical window,” Mason Ho says. “This day was special because nobody expected Backdoor to be good, but eventually we all caught on.”