Back in 2016, just after sunrise on Australia’s east coast, Mark was surfing a very sketchy wave. There was a big swell pounding its way through, it was low tide, and Mathews was fresh off a shoulder injury that kept him out of the water. His first wave went perfectly. The second wave, though, turned into something unexpected. He got caught on an 8-footer, attempted to punch out of it, and got sucked over, landing feet first on a rock ledge. His leg shattered. On the beach, medics sedated him and straightened his leg out. His leg, though, quickly began ballooning, and a helicopter was called. At the hospital, it became evident just how badly he was injured: a broken leg, a dislocated knee, two snapped ligaments, major nerve damage, and an artery that tore lengthways, filling his leg with blood. Thanks to an incredibly skilled surgeon, Mathews didn’t have his leg amputated, but it was a close call. For a while, it didn’t look as though he’d be able to surf again—but Mathews, with that same tenacity that made him the surfer that he is today, fought through it to surf another day.
He recently returned to Shipstern Bluff, a wave that his name has become synonymous with. Along for the ride were other standouts at one of the world’s hairiest waves: Mikey Brennan and Tyler and James Holmer-Cross. Cameron Staunton and Nick Colclough stood on the cliffs and pointed cameras at the action, and it’s clear proof that there are a handful of people who have this wave absolutely dialed in.
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