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The Inertia

Waimea Bay is not a place for the faint of heart. It’s big, it’s heavy, and it’ll hurt you if you don’t know what you’re doing. Luckily, Mark Healey, Ikaika Kalama, Mikey Redd, and Kaeo Abby know what they’re doing, because when Waimea got giant recently, they decided they’d take out a canoe to try their hands at canoe surfing.

He’d been surfing (on his birthday) an outer reef all day, and he decided it was about time to come in before anything went wrong. But when they rounded the bend on the ski and looked at Waimea, they saw something that surprised them: a canoe. In the lineup. So Mark jumped in.

“If you want to feel alive,” Healey says, “jump in a canoe and get on a wave.” And if there’s any man who knows what it feels like to feel alive, it’s Healey… so you know you REALLY feel alive.


Learn to push yourself, keep calm, and manage fear in heavy surf with Mark Healey’s Guide to Heavy Water.

 
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