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Mark Healey surfing Pipeline

Mark Healey doesn’t shout about how good he is. He just shows it. Photo: YouTube//Screenshot


The Inertia

Mark Healey definitely has a preference when it comes to waves. He likes waves that bite. He likes waves that will knock you down, drag you to the bottom, and sit on your chest until you’re seeing stars. It’s not that he likes those things, exactly, but he likes the fact that he’s capable of escaping them. And in the process of escaping them, he’s become one of the most celebrated big wave surfers in the world.

When it’s big in Hawaii, Mark pokes his head out. He’ll paddle out quietly, nodding respectfully to the crowd, then catch the biggest and best waves. When he’s had his fill, he’ll quietly paddle in. Spectators, of course, are generally floored by his performance, but Healey humbly moves through life with a quiet confidence that says “I don’t need anyone’s approval.”

He’d be doing what he’s doing whether anyone watched or not. On February 12, Pipeline was giant. Healey, fresh off a ruptured eardrum sustained at the Eddie, donned a helmet for the first time, chucked an earplug in, and got incredibly barreled.

“Crowded,” he said afterwards. “It was fun though. One make, two no makes. Just a beautiful day out there. First time with a helmet and an earplug. I figure I’ve used up all my luck already. I’ve had enough head injuries that take the longest to recover from of any other injuries I’ve ever had. I’m dumb enough already. I don’t need another TBI.”

 
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