Imsouane, and its traditional Moroccan homes, are about to change forever. Photo: GoFundMe
The village of Imsouane is the latest surf spot at the frontline of Morocco’s surfing-led development. The former fishing village has been transformed by the influx of surfers drawn to the point break known simply as The Bay. On the best winter swells, its three sections can link up to deliver a wave that spools slowly, but evenly, for almost 1,000 yards. It has been labelled Africa’s longest wave. Cathedrals, the beachbreak inside the Bay, also offers consistent peaks.
“I had the great pleasure of surfing this awesome point on various adventures between 1998 and 2008, and returning this winter with my family to meet the local crew making a living from surf tourism,” said longboarder, filmmaker and broadcaster Sam Bleakley. “However, on Thursday reports came in that residents were given just 24 hours to vacate their homes. Planned demolitions were due to start immediately to make way for the building of a large-scale resort in the village.”
“The proposed demolition will not only destroy the oldest most atmospheric parts of Imsouane but displace residents who have invested their lives and careers into the town and its future,” said Bleakley. A petition and GoFundMe page have been set up to try and stop the demolition and development.
Originally a quiet fishing village 55 miles north of Agadir and 60 miles south of Essaouira, Imsouane translates as “the drinking mouth,” with its river-fed Bay drinking in the swell from the Atlantic Ocean. Small huts were built into the rocky cliff face by Berber fishing families. Surfers started arriving in numbers around 25 years ago, but the lack of electricity or running water kept it mainly to intrepid campers. However, the user-friendly nature of the wave meant this winter surf and swell trap couldn’t stay under wraps.
In the last decade, the town has transformed as the wave hit the global surf consciousness. Dozens of surf schools, camps, and homestay accommodations popped up to meet the demand. Last year, when a government plan to dredge the bay was met with resistance from surfers, a study claimed that over 100,000 board-carrying visitors arrive in the town each year.
Clearly, those numbers come with the need for added infrastructure, including accommodation. However, it’s the manner of the development that is concerning. As surfers’ demand outstripped supply, large, government-backed corporations are determined to fill the gap.
“I’m not against big projects, but I really feel like we gotta save and keep a few special places that we have along the coast authentic, cultural, charm(ing) villages,” Moroccan CT surfer Ramzi Boukhiam posted on Instagram.
Opponents of the new development have pointed to a recent example at Tifnit, another Moroccan fishing-turned-surfing village, where the bulldozers came to raze locals’ homes and businesses with little to no notice.
Similar scenes occurred in the Tamraght, Taghazout and Aourir (‘Banana Village’) to the south of Anchor Point. That was part of the Taghazout Bay development, a $1 billion project that included beachfront cafes, open-air restaurants, 2,000 residential apartments, luxury hotels, beach clubs, and a three-mile beachfront promenade. It was a key plank in the government’s Vision 2020 plan to boost tourism. The press release came with a statement that the country aimed to increase its slice of the worldwide surf tourism cake, estimated to be worth $3.1 billion by 2026.
A Radisson, Fairmont, Riu, Hyatt Regency, and a Hilton have all opened. One of the main shareholders was the billionaire agriculture minister Aziz Akhannouch. Boukhiam, who grew up in the area, is a high-profile ambassador of the development, which may, or may not, be a reason why he isn’t against big projects.
Anecdotal evidence suggests occupancy has been low at the big hotels. It might be a test case on whether surfing can be the platform for a wider, mainstream, tourism. Whatever happens, it’s transformed the economic, social and geographic landscape forever. And that wouldn’t have occurred without the righthand points nearby.
Morocco, probably along with Bali, is one of the world’s hotspots of this style of unchecked surfing-led development. Imousane and its ramshackle authenticity weren’t immune to that development. However, so far, the town has been able to retain its charm. Now that could all be about to change, suddenly and irrevocably.
“The proposed demolition will not only erase a significant part of the characteristic charm of Imsouane but also displace many residents who will lose their livelihoods,” said the petition. “These are people whose lives are intertwined with the very fabric of Imsouane – their homes and businesses form an integral part of what makes this town special.”
“The local and international surf community put this place on the map and must have a voice with authorities and developers in these plans,” concludes Bleakley. “Please sign the petition to help save Imsouane.”
