Everyone’s got a board they love. Photo: Brian Scott/Nica Surf Shots
The time has arrived. It seems like it was yesterday, the day I dreamt about you. I remember our first day together– it was love at first sight. During the last five years we shared so much… you heard my laughs and my cries; you shared my fears, and we conquered them together. You have never let me down. You never showed any kind of resentment, even in those days you offered me the best of you, but it was still not enough.
Do you remember the days when my soul was so wounded that I couldn’t even be in the ocean? Today, I look back and I realize how important you are for me. There are parts of my life that would not have been the same without you. We travelled the world together, explored different oceans, winds, the warmth and the cold of each place. I took care of you the best I could, sometimes even better than myself. I forgot how many times I have duct taped you, how many times I took you to the shaping room, praying for your recovery.
You will always remain unique, but I feel the need to experience something new, something that challenges me. I want to taste the flow of a single fin, the gliding power of a 10ft log or even the restlessness of a thruster. Deep inside of me, I know my heart will always be with you. Who knows? One day, after finding the peace of mind I am seeking through this journey, I will be back to you more in love than ever? I hope you don’t see this as a betrayal. I hope you understand that to evolve and become a better person, we must search for the change. With change comes the fear of the unknown which we must face and accept. That’s why I need to leave you: we know each other too well… but I will always love you.
