About an hour from the coast of Sanur on Bali, there’s a little island called Nusa Lembongan. It’s a wonderful place, full of friendly people and a handful of insanely good waves. I was lucky enough to spend a few weeks there in 2004. Back then, the place ran on diesel generators. Alcohol was near-impossible to find unless you counted the suspect arak in an old water bottle made by a thousand-year-old woman in a little blue box of a building. The place had one pool table in a single restaurant, and our house on the sand cost almost nothing. It was a good few weeks.
One of the waves there is called Lacerations — the other two of note are Shipwrecks and the left at Cennigan, the latter of which was just over a rickety bridge — and when these waves are on, they are ON. Take, for example, the footage you see above. Shot in just two hours on August 25 at Lacerations, Nusa Lembongan, the local boys were on the spot to catch it. Just after high tide, Lacerations opened up its welcoming barrels to them, and although the wind was a little bit crossed up, it was offshore enough to keep those famous tubes open.
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