This is a surf film for the rest of us. It’s grovelling at an over surfed beach break. It’s watching the buoys and begging for a swell. It’s wishing you had a boat, or trying to find friends that do. It’s a crowded dawn patrol and forgetting your wetsuit outside last night. It’s 7mm booties and mandatory gloves. It’s taking off your hood and regretting it. It’s chasing daylight and running to the beach. It’s “too big there and too small here.” It’s laughing in the lineup. It’s knowing that we are all Kooks…
See more from Marcus at Marcus Paladino.com and follow him on Instagram@marcuspaladino
Soundtrack by Davin Sandvar. Follow him on Instagram@davinsandvar
