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The Inertia

Koa Smith has a bit of a thing for Skeleton Bay. Remember, all those years ago, when the internet collectively freaked out over his two-minute octo-barrel? Yeah, it’s a place burned into his heart. He headed there for a sneaky swell sometime this year, and boy oh boy, did he time it perfectly.

Skeleton Bay is a long way away from anything, and it’s a tough place to get to even when there’s not a global pandemic. So when there is a pandemic, you can bet that the crowd will be small, to say the least. On the first day of the swell, Koa surfed it basically alone. On the second day, he surfed it at a serious size. And it’s still everything he’s ever dreamed of.

 
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