Photo: Koa Rothman//Screenshot//YouTube
“Today is gonna be different. This swell is going to be different,” is a very familiar thought for virtually any surfer. This time it was being expressed by Koa Rothman, as he prepared to paddle out the day after a decidedly gnarly experience at Pipeline that he described as “pure carnage and chaos.”
“Here is the real redemption session,” he went on to explain in the vlog, posted to his YouTube channel. “That last day it was kind of rough, but it’s calmed down a lot today. It’s about six feet and picking up as we speak. Perfect conditions. Off The Wall is going crazy, which is right next to Pipe and Backdoor. Backdoor has a few, Pipe has a few, but with the rising swell, I think it’s gonna get really, really good out here, so I’m going out right now.”
It’s a sentiment that is somewhat comforting to hear from a heavy water charger like Rothman. Though his “rough day” is exponentially more hazardous and trying than that of the everyday surfer, it’s nice to know that the feeling is still universal – and that the cure, as always, is to just get back out there and try again.
